"I was wondering if you are able to make other grids? I would love to also make an afghan for my son of the Chicago Blackhawk emblem.
My son has been through a lot of health issues and recently got a tattoo of this logo. When he heard I was making a Harley afghan for my mom and step-dad, he said he wanted a blackhawk one."
Well, here you go Kim, and I hope you son gets better soon.
THIS PATTERN IS NOW DOWNLOADABLE ON MY NEW FACEBOOK GROUP PAGE. YOU CAN FIND ITHERE. JUST GO TO THE FILES TAB TO DOWNLOAD.
This graph is 149 squares wide and 135 squares long. Each square is one single crochet. With an I hook and worsted weight yarn I measured my gauge at 4 stitches = 1" 4 rows = 1", so the afghan should measure 37 1/4" x 33 3/4".
If you want to make it wider or longer, I'd add red stitches on either side of the pattern for width or more rows to the top and bottom of the pattern to make it longer. I don't knit, but I think you could use this for a knitted afghan as well. This chart will help you figure out the total amount of yarn you will need.
If you are new to crochet charts check out my Globe Pillow Crochet Along, it has a tutorial on how to read a chart and change yarn. If you would rather cross stitch the details of the chart, I would crochet the major black and orange areas and then you can have a look at my Day of the Dead Banner (also below) pattern for a tutorial on how to cross stitch on single crochet.
For other tips on how to do a charted afghan check out my Harley Davidson Afghan post here.
If you would like to see a picture of the finished afghan you can find it here.
I realize there's no way you could crochet this afghan from this tiny picture, so if you want the chart email me at crochetparfaitpg@yahoo.com. Let me know what format you want it in. (Excel--editable .xlsx, Adobe .pdf or picture .png, I recommend the .xlsx or .png files because the pdf splits it up into several pages.)
A while back Chelsea asked me to come up with a cowl pattern for this stitch pattern. I had some really pretty bulky yarn with sequins that I have been wanting to try out. I was able to make this cowl in a few hours. Enjoy!
Materials:
Loops and Threads Dewdrops Bulky Yarn--Turquoise and Rust
Loops and Threads Charisma Bulky Yarn--Dark Blue
L hook
Smaller hook for weaving in
Gauge:
1 pattern run = 4"; the pattern runs over 11 sts
Special Stitches:
V stitch--V: Double crochet (dc), chain (ch) 1, dc all in same stitch (st)
Abbreviations:
ch(s)--chain(s) dc(s)--double crochet(s) dc3tog--double crochet 2 together
dc2tog--double crochet 2 together sk--skip
Pattern:
I used 3 colors of yarn, but if you only use one color it should only take about 1 skein.
With Dark Blue yarn Ch 90. (I like to put a stitch marker in every 10 to 20 chs to keep track of my count)
Row 1: Dc in 3rd, *ch 1, sk next ch, dc in next ch, ch 1, sk next ch, V in next ch, ch 3, V in next ch, ch 1, sk next ch, dc in next ch, ch 1, sk next ch, dc3tog* 7 times, ch 1, sk next ch, dc in next ch, ch 1, sk next ch, V in next ch, ch 3, V in next ch, ch 1, sk next ch, dc in next ch, ch 1, sk next ch dc2tog, fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to weave in several times. Turn.
I'm using the lighter yarn in the pictures so it's easier to see the stitches.
Row 2: Attach Turquoise yarn, ch 3, dc in next dc, *ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, (V, ch 3, V) in ch-3 sp, ch 1, dc in second dc, ch 1, dc3tog in next 3 dcs (see chart)* 7 times, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, (V, ch 3, V) in ch-3 sp, ch 1, dc in second dc, ch 1, dc2tog in next to dcs. Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to weave in several times. Turn.
Row 3: Repeat Row 2 with Rust yarn Row 4: Repeat Row 2 with Dark Blue yarn Row 5: Repeat Row 2 with Rust yarn Row 6: Repeat Row 2 with Turquoise yarn Row 7: Reapeat Row 2 with Dark Blue yarn
Finishing
Using a smaller hook (I used a G hook) join the short ends of the cowl together by weaving in the ends.
Here's how the front of the seam looks when it's finished.
Novice Sandy on Knitting Paradise found this absolutely adorable pattern for an Amigurumi Yorkie. The only problem is the pattern is incomprehensible. I think it was originally written in Japanese and the translation is really bad. Fortunately, I have crocheted some amigurumi patterns using the Japanese chart method so I get what's going on here, so here is my translation. I did have to change a few things here and there, but I think it's pretty true to the original pattern.
Finished Size:
About 7 inches High x 5 inches Wide
Materials:
Red Heart Super Saver Yarn, worsted weight, Warm Brown
C or size 2 Hook, such as Clover Soft Touch 2.75-mm Crochet Hooks, Size C
Stitch Marker
Poly-fil Stuffing, such as Fairfield Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber
Embroidery Floss in light browns, beiges, dark yellows and black, such as DMC Prism Six-Strand Floss
Red Heart Shimmer yarn , Black
Lion Brand, Vanna's Glamour yarn , Topaz
2 round black shank buttons, such as Slimline Buttons Series 1-Black Shank 3/4"
Tapestry Needle, such as Clover Gold Eye Tapestry, No. 18-22
Abbreviations:
Rnd--round ch(s)--chain(s) sc(s) single crochet(s) st(s)--stitch(es)
sc2tog--single crochet 2 stitches together
Head
Start with a magic circle
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 6 scs in circle (6scs)
From now on put a stitch marker in the first sc of each rnd.
Rnd 2: 2 scs in each sc (12 scs)
Rnd 3: 1 sc in sc, 2 scs in next sc (18 scs)
Rnd 4: 1 sc in next 2 scs, 2 scs in next sc (24 scs)
Rnd 5: 1 sc in next 3 scs, 2 scs in next sc (30 scs)
Rnd 6: 1 sc in next 4 scs, 2 scs in next sc (36 scs)
Rnd 7: 1 sc in next 5 scs, 2 scs in next sc (42 scs)
Rnd 8: 1 sc in each sc (42 scs)
Rnd 9: 1 sc in next 6 scs, 2 scs in next sc (48 scs)
Rnd 10-11: 1 sc in each sc (48 scs)
Now you start to decrease, continue putting stitch marker in first st of each rnd.
Rnd 12: 1 sc in next 5 scs, sc2tog in next sc (42 scs)
Rnd 13: 1 sc in each sc (42 scs)
Rnd 14: 1 sc in next 4 scs, sc2tog in next sc (36 scs)
Rnd 15: 1 sc in next 3 scs, sc2tog in next sc (30 scs)
Rnd 16: 1 sc in next 2 scs, sc2tog in next sc (24 scs)
Rnd 17-18: 1 sc in each sc (24 scs)
Start stuffing, but stuff loosely enough so you can shape the head.
Rnd 19: 1 sc in next sc, sc2tog (12 scs)
Rnd 20: 6 sc2togs, (6 scs)
Fasten off. Leave bottom open for sewing later. Shape head into an oval.
Body:
Start with a magic circle
Rnd 1: ch 1, 6 scs in circle (6 scs)
Rnd 2: 2 scs in each sc (12 scs)
Rnd 3: 1 sc in next sc, 2 scs in next sc (18 scs)
Rnd 4: 1 sc in next 2 scs, 2 scs in next sc (24 scs)
Rnd 5: 1 sc in next 3 scs, 2 scs in next sc (30 scs)
Rnd 6: 1 sc in next 4 scs, 2 scs in next sc (36 scs)
Rnd 7: 1 sc in each sc (36 scs)
Rnd 8: 1 sc in next 5 scs, 2 scs in next sc (42 scs)
Rnd 9: 1 sc in next 6 scs, 2 scs in next scs (48 scs)
Rnd 10-11: 1 sc in each sc (48 scs)
Start to decrease
Rnd 12: 1 sc in next 6 scs, sc2tog (42 scs)
Rnd 13: 1 sc in each sc (42 scs)
Rnd 14: 1 sc in next 5 scs, sc2tog (36 scs)
Rnd 15: 1 sc in each sc (36 scs)
Rnd 16: 1 sc in next 4 scs, sc2tog (30 scs)
Rnd 17: 1 scs in each sc (30 scs)
Rnd 18: 1 sc in next 3 scs, sc2tog (24 scs)
Rnd 19-26: 1 sc in each sc (24 scs)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing later.
Stuff, but don't sew up the hole.
Front Legs:
Make 2
Make a magic circle
Rnd 1: ch 1, 6 scs in circle (6 scs)
Place a stitch marker in the first st of each rnd
Rnd 2: 2 scs per sc (12 scs)
Rnd 3: 1 sc in next sc, 2 scs in next sc (18 scs)
Rnd 4-5: 1 sc in each sc (18 scs)
Start decreasing
Rnd 6: 1 sc in next sc, sc2tog (12 scs)
Stuff foot.
Rnd 7: sc2tog, 1 sc in next 4 scs, sc2tog, 1 sc in next 4 scs (10 scs)
Rnd 8-22: 1 sc in each sc (10 scs)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing in, stuff the leg near the foot, but not at the top.
Hind legs:
Make 2
Make a magic circle
Rnd 1: ch 1, 8 scs in circle (8 scs)
Put a stitch marker in the first st of each row.
Rnd 2: 2 scs in each sc (16 scs)
Rnd 3: 1 sc in next sc, 2 scs in next sc (24 scs)
Rnd 4-5: 1 sc in each sc (24 scs)
Start decreasing
Rnd 6: 1 sc in next sc, sc2tog (16 scs)
Rnd 7: sc2tog 3 times, sc in rest of scs (13 scs)
Rnd 8: sc2tog once, 1 sc in sc in rest of sts (12 scs)
Flatten right side on one leg and left side on the other leg. Partially stuff.
Rnd 9-13: 1 sc in each sc (12 scs)
Start stuffing the leg as you finish up.
Rnd 14: sc2tog, 1 sc in next sc (6 scs)
Rnd 15: sc2tog all the way around to close (3 scs)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Ears:
Make 2
Make a magic circle
Rnd 1: ch 1, 4 scs in circle (4 scs)
Put a stitch marker in the first st of each row.
Rnd 2: 1 sc per sc (4 scs)
Rnd 3: 2 scs per sc (8 scs)
Rnd 4: 1 sc per sc (8 scs)
Rnd 5: 1 sc in next sc, 2 scs in next sc (12 scs)
Rnd 6: 1 sc in each sc (12 scs)
Rnd 7: 2 scs in first sc, 1 sc in rest of scs (13 scs)
Rnd 8-10: 1 sc in each sc (13 scs)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing later. Fold ear, don't stuff.
Tail:
Make a magic circle
Rnd 1: ch 1, 5 scs in magic circle (5 scs)
Put a stitch marker in the first st of each row.
Rnd 2: 1 sc in each sc (5 scs)
Rnd 3: 2 scs in first sc, 1 sc in next, 2 scs in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 scs (7 scs)
Rnd 4-7: 1 sc in each sc (7 sc)
Rnd 8: *2 scs in first sc, 1 sc* 3 times, 1 sc in next 2 scs (10 scs)
Rnd 9-10: 1 sc in each sc (10 scs)
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing in.
Muzzle:
Make a magic circle.
Rnd 1: ch 1, 6 scs in circle (6 scs)
Put a stitch marker in the first st of each row.
Rnd 2: 2 scs per sc (12 scs)
Rnd 3: 1 sc in each sc (12 scs)
Rnd 4: 1 sc in next sc, 2 scs in next sc (18 scs)
Rnd 5-7: 1 sc in each sc (18 scs)
Rnd 8: *2 scs in next sc* 4 times, sc in next 14 scs (22 scs)
Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing in. Stuff muzzle.
Finishing:
Sew muzzle to the head.
Sew front legs to body.
I tacked the legs down mid way to help the dog stand upright
and then the head to the body.
Sew the hind legs onto the body
Sew the tail onto the body
Sew on the ears with the fold to the back.
Weave in yarn ends.
Now start to attach embroidery floss and shimmer yarn. I used full strands. If you want to anchor the hair so it won't fall out, here is a good tutorial on how to do doll hair.
It helps to have a picture of a Yorkie.Here is a good photo or you can use the photo on the original pattern.
Embroider the nose.
I've had some questions about how to sew on the fur that is pulled up between the ears, so I'm adding this to help with this question.
Attach yarn at the bottom of the snout for the hair that is pulled up between the ears.
Once you have enough yarn attached, pull it up between the ears and use some attached yarn by the ears to tie the yarn up.
Trim floss to make it even
Sew some yarn at the base of the snout and pull it back between the ears and then tie it back. You can also use ribbon. Then sew on the buttons for the eyes.
Here's how it looks from the back. The black fur is the black shimmer yarn.
