Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Amigurumi Yorkie Tutorial





Novice Sandy on Knitting Paradise found this absolutely adorable pattern for an
Amigurumi Yorkie.  The only problem is the pattern is incomprehensible.  I think it was originally written in Japanese and the translation is really bad.  Fortunately, I have crocheted some amigurumi patterns using the Japanese chart method so I get what's going on here, so here is my translation.  I did have to change a few things here and there, but I think it's pretty true to the original pattern.

Finished Size:
About 7 inches High x 5 inches Wide

Materials:

  • Red Heart Super Saver Yarn, worsted weight, Warm Brown
  • C or size 2 Hook, such as Clover Soft Touch 2.75-mm Crochet Hooks, Size C
  • Stitch Marker
  • Poly-fil Stuffing, such as Fairfield Poly-Fil Premium Polyester Fiber
  • Embroidery Floss in light browns, beiges, dark yellows and black, such as DMC Prism Six-Strand Floss
  • Red Heart Shimmer yarn , Black
  • Lion Brand, Vanna's Glamour yarn , Topaz
  • 2 round black shank buttons, such as Slimline Buttons Series 1-Black Shank 3/4"
  • Tapestry Needle, such as Clover Gold Eye Tapestry, No. 18-22
Abbreviations:
Rnd--round    ch(s)--chain(s)  sc(s) single crochet(s)  st(s)--stitch(es)
sc2tog--single crochet 2 stitches together

Head
Start with a magic circle
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 6 scs in circle (6scs)

From now on put a stitch marker in the first sc of each rnd.



Rnd 2: 2 scs in each sc (12 scs)
Rnd 3: 1 sc in sc, 2 scs in next sc (18 scs)
Rnd 4: 1 sc in next 2 scs, 2 scs in next sc (24 scs)
Rnd 5: 1 sc in next 3 scs, 2 scs in next sc (30 scs)
Rnd 6: 1 sc in next 4 scs, 2 scs in next sc (36 scs)
Rnd 7: 1 sc in next 5 scs, 2 scs in next sc (42 scs)
Rnd 8: 1 sc in each sc (42 scs)
Rnd 9: 1 sc in next 6 scs, 2 scs in next sc (48 scs)
Rnd 10-11: 1 sc in each sc (48 scs)          

Now you start to decrease, continue putting stitch marker in first st of each rnd.
Rnd 12: 1 sc in next 5 scs,  sc2tog in next sc (42 scs)
Rnd 13: 1 sc in each sc (42 scs)
Rnd 14: 1 sc in next 4 scs, sc2tog in next sc (36 scs)
Rnd 15: 1 sc in next 3 scs, sc2tog in next sc (30 scs)
Rnd 16: 1 sc in next 2 scs, sc2tog in next sc (24 scs)
Rnd 17-18: 1 sc in each sc (24 scs)

Start stuffing, but stuff loosely enough so you can shape the head.




Rnd 19: 1 sc in next sc, sc2tog (12 scs)
Rnd 20: 6 sc2togs, (6 scs)

Fasten off.  Leave bottom open for sewing later.  Shape head into an oval.



Body:
Start with a magic circle

Rnd 1: ch 1, 6 scs in circle (6 scs)

Rnd 2: 2 scs in each sc (12 scs)
Rnd 3: 1 sc in next sc, 2 scs in next sc (18 scs)
Rnd 4: 1 sc in next 2 scs, 2 scs in next sc (24 scs)
Rnd 5: 1 sc in next 3 scs, 2 scs in next sc (30 scs)
Rnd 6: 1 sc in next 4 scs, 2 scs in next sc (36 scs)
Rnd 7: 1 sc in each sc (36 scs)
Rnd 8: 1 sc in next 5 scs, 2 scs in next sc (42 scs)
Rnd 9: 1 sc in next 6 scs, 2 scs in next scs (48 scs)
Rnd 10-11: 1 sc in each sc (48 scs)  

Start to decrease
Rnd 12: 1 sc in next 6 scs, sc2tog (42 scs)
Rnd 13: 1 sc in each sc (42 scs)
Rnd 14: 1 sc in next 5 scs, sc2tog (36 scs)
Rnd 15: 1 sc in each sc (36 scs)
Rnd 16: 1 sc in next 4 scs, sc2tog (30 scs)
Rnd 17: 1 scs in each sc (30 scs)
Rnd 18: 1 sc in next 3 scs, sc2tog (24 scs)
Rnd 19-26: 1 sc in each sc  (24 scs)  

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing later.
Stuff, but don't sew up the hole.




Front Legs:
Make 2

Make a magic circle
Rnd 1: ch 1, 6 scs in circle (6 scs)

Place a stitch marker in the first st of each rnd
Rnd 2: 2 scs per sc (12 scs)
Rnd 3: 1 sc in next sc, 2 scs in next sc (18 scs)
Rnd 4-5: 1 sc in each sc (18 scs)

Start decreasing
Rnd 6:  1 sc in next sc, sc2tog (12 scs)

Stuff foot.




Rnd 7: sc2tog, 1 sc in next 4 scs, sc2tog, 1 sc in next 4 scs (10 scs)
Rnd 8-22: 1 sc in each sc (10 scs)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing in, stuff the leg near the foot, but not at the top.



Hind legs:
Make 2



Make a magic circle
Rnd 1:  ch 1, 8 scs in circle (8 scs)

Put a stitch marker in the first st of each row.
Rnd 2: 2 scs in each sc (16 scs)
Rnd 3: 1 sc in next sc, 2 scs in next sc (24 scs)
Rnd 4-5: 1 sc in each sc (24 scs)

Start decreasing
Rnd 6: 1 sc in next sc, sc2tog (16 scs)
Rnd 7: sc2tog 3 times, sc in rest of scs (13 scs)
Rnd 8: sc2tog once, 1 sc in sc in rest of sts (12 scs)

Flatten right side on one leg and left side on the other leg. Partially stuff.



Rnd 9-13: 1 sc in each sc (12 scs)


Start stuffing the leg as you finish up.
Rnd 14: sc2tog, 1 sc in next sc (6 scs)
Rnd 15: sc2tog all the way  around to close (3 scs)

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.




Ears:
Make 2

Make a magic circle
Rnd 1: ch 1, 4 scs in circle (4 scs)

Put a stitch marker in the first st of each row.
Rnd 2: 1 sc per sc (4 scs)
Rnd 3: 2 scs per sc (8 scs)
Rnd 4: 1 sc per sc (8 scs)
Rnd 5: 1 sc in next sc, 2 scs in next sc (12 scs)
Rnd 6: 1 sc in each sc (12 scs)
Rnd 7: 2 scs in first sc, 1 sc in rest of scs (13 scs)
Rnd 8-10: 1 sc in each sc (13 scs)  
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing later.  Fold ear, don't stuff.




Tail:
Make a magic circle
Rnd 1: ch 1, 5 scs in magic circle (5 scs)

Put a stitch marker in the first st of each row.
Rnd 2: 1 sc in each sc (5 scs)
Rnd 3: 2 scs in first sc, 1 sc in next, 2 scs in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 scs (7 scs)
Rnd 4-7: 1 sc in each sc  (7 sc)
Rnd 8: *2 scs in first sc, 1 sc* 3 times, 1 sc in next 2 scs (10 scs)
Rnd 9-10: 1 sc in each sc (10 scs)

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing in.


Muzzle:

Make a magic circle.
Rnd 1: ch 1, 6 scs in circle (6 scs)

Put a stitch marker in the first st of each row.
Rnd 2: 2 scs per sc (12 scs)
Rnd 3: 1 sc in each sc  (12 scs)
Rnd 4: 1 sc in next sc, 2 scs in next sc (18 scs)
Rnd 5-7: 1 sc in each sc (18 scs)
Rnd 8: *2 scs in next sc* 4 times, sc in next 14 scs (22 scs)

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing in. Stuff muzzle.


Finishing:



Sew muzzle to the head.


Sew front legs to body.



I tacked the legs down mid way to help the dog stand upright
 and then the head to the body.


Sew the hind legs onto the body


Sew the tail onto the body


Sew on the ears with the fold to the back.

Weave in yarn ends.

Now start to attach embroidery floss and shimmer yarn.  I used full strands.  If you want to anchor the hair so it won't fall out, here is a good tutorial on how to do doll hair.





It helps to have a picture of a Yorkie.  Here is a good photo or you can use the photo on the original pattern.


 Embroider the nose.




I've had some questions about how to sew on the fur that is pulled up between the ears, so I'm adding this to help with this question.
Attach yarn at the bottom of the snout for the hair that is pulled up between the ears.


Once you have enough yarn attached, pull it up between the ears and use some attached yarn by the ears to tie the yarn up.





Trim floss to make it even



Sew some yarn at the base of the snout and pull it back between the ears and then tie it back.  You can also use ribbon.  Then sew on the buttons for the eyes.



Here's how it looks from the back.  The black fur is the black shimmer yarn.





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Monday, February 11, 2013

I'm getting close

Can you name this animal?


Novice Sandy on Knitting Paradise found this absolutely adorable pattern for an
Amigurumi Yorkie.  The only problem is the pattern is incomprehensible.  I think it was originally written in Japanese and the translation is really bad.  Fortunately, I have crocheted some amigurumi patterns using the Japanese chart method so I get what's going on here.  I'm working on a translation and this is how far I've gotten.






As soon as I get the pattern done I'll post a link here.

The pattern is now up here.


Friday, February 8, 2013

Learn to Crochet

For those of you who like my patterns, but are new to crochet and don't know where to start, here are my beginner patterns.  All of them come with photo tutorials and detailed instructions.

Each pattern is small so they don't take forever to make.  You can find a crochet abbreviation sheet here and diagram symbols here.  This link helps you learn to read a crochet pattern.

Chain Stitch Bangle Bracelet
This pattern teaches you how to do a slip knot and chain stitch, the foundations of crochet. It also teaches you how to fasten off and weave in, the finishing touches.


This pattern teaches you how to do single crochet and how to sew pieces together.


This pattern teaches you how to do half-double crochet and how to change yarn colors.


This pattern teaches you how to do double crochet and how to do a simple crochet edging with half double and single crochet.


This pattern teaches you how to do triple or treble crochet, how to do a shell and  how to follow a crochet diagram.



Once you have mastered these skills you will be able to move on to more advanced techniques.  All of my patterns teach a different type of technique and are photo tutorials.  Check out the Special Skills and Techniques to the left of this post for tutorials on more advanced techniques.



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Sunday, February 3, 2013

Turbanesque Headband



When I was trying to come up with a pattern stitch to use for my Pillowghan I tried this Slant Stitch from Suzies Stuff.  I wasn't quite satisfied with it for the Pillowghan, but my daughter really liked it and told me she wanted me to make her a wide headband with this stitch.  She wanted it to have a band that pulled it together at the top, so it sort of looks like a turban.  She even wanted me to use the same yarn.  So here's a nice quickie pattern.

Materials
  • Bernat Softee Chunky Twists yarn, Tropic Twist
  • Red Heart Soft yarn, Turquesa
  • I Hook
  • Tapestry Needle
Gauge
3 dcs + 1 SLANT st=1 1/4"
2 dc rows = 1"
3 scs = 1" with Bernat Softee Chunky Twists yarn
5 scs = 1" with Red Heart Soft Yarn


Special Stitches

Slant Stitch--SLANT--Yarn over (YO), insert hook in missed stitch (st), YO, pull up a long loop all the way up to the height of the other sts, YO pull through 2 loops, YO pull through last 2 loops.

YO

Insert hook in missed stitch

YO

Pull up loop to level of the other stitches

YO

Pull through 2 loops, YO again

Pull through last 2 loops

Abbreviations
YO--yarn over         ch(s)--chain(s)                  sc(s)--single crochet(s)
sk--skip                   dc(s)--double crochet(s)   st(s)--stitch(es)
SLANT--slant stitch           hdc(s)--half double crochet

Headband
Ch 72.
Row 1: Sc in second sc and in each sc to end. Turn. (71 sts)

Row 2: Ch 2, dc in same st, sk next st, *dc in next 3 sts, SLANT, sk next st* 16 times, sk st, dc in last st. Turn. (70 sts)

Row 3: repeat Row 2.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in same st and next 16 sts, hdc in next 9 sts, dc in next 19 sts, hdc in next 9 sts, sc in next 16 sts. Turn. (70 sts)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in same st and next 15 sts, hdc in next 9 sts, dc in next 19 sts, hdc in next 9 sts, sc in next 17 sts. Turn (70 sts)

Row 6: Repeat Row 4.

Row 7: Ch 1, sc in same st and in each st across. Turn. (70 sts)

Rows 8 and 9:  Repeat Row 2. At the end of Row 9, fasten off leaving a long tail for weaving in.



Sew ends of headband together using long tail.



Small Band

Ch 6.
Row 1:  Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (5 scs)

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in same st and in each st across. Turn. (5 scs)

Row 3 to Row 14:  Repeat Row 2, on Row 14, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

To attach the small band, first fold the front of the headband (opposite from where you sewed the seam.)


Then wrap the small band around the headband at the mid point with the ends going around the back of the fold.


Then sew the small band together, catching some of the headband strands too, to hold the small band in place.


Weave in the ends and cut the end off.





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