Crochet Special Stitches and Techniques

Sunday, July 27, 2014

Beaded Butterfly Crop Top



Materials

  • Beadalon 2.25" (5.7cm) Big Eye Beading Needle
  • 3 colors of 6/0 to 8/0 size seed beads (darkest for body) A (592 beads, dark green) B (116 beads, light green), C (220 beads, gold)
  • DMC Baroque Number 10 White Cotton Crochet Thread 
  • No. 5 steel crochet hook
  • Needle threader
  • G/6-4.25 mm hook
  • Worsted Weight cotton yarn, I'm using Lily's Sugar n' Cream yarn, 2 to 3 skeins 
Gauge

For butterfly:  10 sts per inch, 8 dc rows per 2 inches, 5 tr rows per 2 inches
Butterfly dimensions:  11 inches wide x 10 inches high
For bandeau:   4 sts per inch, 3 rows per inch

Special Stitches

BDTCh--Beaded Dc Turning Ch--Slide up a bead, chain (ch) 2, slide up a bead, ch 1.

BDc--Beaded Dc--Slide up a bead, Yarn over (YO) hook, insert hook in stitch, pull up a loop, slide up a bead, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, pull through 2 loops.

Beaded Ch--Slide up a bead, ch 1.

BTTCh--Beaded Tr Turning Ch--Ch 1, slide up a bead, ch 2, slide up a bead, ch 1. 

BTr--Beaded Tr--YO hook 2 times, insert in stitch, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, slide up a bead, YO, pull through 2 loops, slide up a bead, YO, pull through 2 loops.

YO hook 2 times

Insert hook in stitch

 Pull up a loop (4 loops on hook)

YO, pull through 2 loops

Slide up a bead

 YO hook, pull through 2 loops

One bead attached, 2 loops left on hook

 Pull up a bead

 YO hook, pull through last 2 loops on hook

 One Beaded triple or BTr



Abbreviations

YO--Yarn Over     ch(s)--chain(s)       dc(s)--double crochet(s)     st(s)--stitch(es)
sl st(s)--slip stitch(es)    tr(s)--triple or treble crochet            
fhdc(s)--foundation half double crochet(s)    hdc(s)--half double crochet(s)


Butterfly Body

I used this diagram to help me come up with the pattern for the butterfly.

String about 164 beads (you can do a few more if you want so you don't run out of if you get tired of counting) onto the DMC cotton thread. (I find it helps to count ever 10 beads)

I highly recommend that you use a large eye beading needle.
Open up the eye either by using a large pin or with a needle threader


How to use a needle threader






Row 1: With a No 5 Steel Hook, ch 4 (counts as 1st dc), dc into 4 times into 1st ch. (5 dcs)



Row 2: BDTCh (counts as 1st BDc), turn, do a Bdc in the same st, do a Bdc in the next 3 dcs, do 2 BDcs in top of turning ch. (7 Bdcs)

You crochet the bead on the backside
 of the work, they will end up on
 the front once you flip it over.



Row 3: Ch 1, sl st into 1st 3 sts (picture),

start sl st in 1st BDc to get a nice sharp edge



ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), turn, dc in same st, 2 dcs in next 2 sts. (6 dcs)


Row 4:  Do a BDTCh (counts as 1st BDc), turn, do a BDc in same st, do a BDc in next 4 sts, do 2 BDcs in top turning ch. (8 BDcs)


Row 5: Sl st in 1st 3 dcs, ch 3, turn, dc in same st, 2 dcs in next 3 dcs. (8 dcs)
Row 6: Do a beaded dc turning ch (counts as 1st beaded dc), turn, do a beaded dc in same st, do a beaded dc in next 6 sts, 2 beaded dcs in top of turning ch.(10 beaded dcs)


Row 7:  Sl st in 1st 3 sts, ch 3, turn, dc in same st, 2 dcs in next 4 sts. (10 dcs)
Row 8:  Do a BDTCh (counts as 1st BDc), turn, do a BDc in same st, do a BDc in next 8 sts, do 2 BDcs in top of turning ch. (12 BDcs)


Row 9:  Sl st into 1st 4 dcs, ch 3, turn, dc in same st, do 2 dcs in next 10 dcs. (12 dcs)
Row 10:  Do a BDTCh (counts as 1st BDc), turn, do a BDc in same st, do a BDc in next 10 sts, do 2 BDcs in top of turning ch. (12 BDcs)


Row 11:  Sl st in 1st 4 dcs, ch 3, turn, dc in same st, do 2 dcs in next 7 beaded dcs.  (16 dcs)
Row 12:  Do a BDTCh (counts as 1st BDc), turn, do a BDc in same st, do a BDc in next 14 sts, do 2 BDcs in top of turning ch. (18 BDcs)


Row 13:  Sl st in 1st 8 dcs, ch 3, turn, dc in same st, do 2 dcs in next 3 beaded dcs.  (8 dcs)
Row 14:  Do a BDTCh (counts as 1st BDc), turn, do a BDc in same st, do a BDc in next 6 sts, do 2 BDcs in top of turning ch. (10 BDcs)


Row 15:  Ch 2, hdc in 2nd beaded dc and in next 6 BDcs, hdc2tog. (8 hdcs)


Antenna

Row 16:  Ch 1, sl st in 1st 2 hdcs, do 13 beaded chs, ch 1, sl st in each beaded ch to beg of the ch, *sl st in next hdc, do 3 beaded chs, ch 1, sl st in each beaded ch back to beg of ch* 2 times, sl st in next st, do 13 beaded chs, ch 1, sl st in each beaded ch to beg of ch, sl st in next hdc, fasten off.




Left Wing

The wing is done in three parts, first the joined wing, then the top lobe and the bottom lobe.


String the beads onto the crochet thread in the following order (read the chart starting at the top with Row 4a. Read it left to right then go down to the next line.):

Left Joined Wing




You will be crocheting in the opposite order from the stringing chart.

Row 1a:  Attach in the top of the left side of the body Row 12.


Ch 5 (counts as tr, ch 1), tr in same spot, ch 5, (tr, ch 1, tr) in top left side of body Row 10, ch 3, (tr, ch 1, tr) in top left side of body Row 8, ch 1 turn. (6 trs)




Row 2a: Sl st into ch-1 sp, BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr) do 4 more BTrs in same ch-1 sp, ch 2, do 3 BTrs in ch-3 sp, ch 2, do 3 BTrs in next ch-1 sp, ch 2, do 5 BTrs in next ch-5 sp, ch 2, do 5 BTrs in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, turn. (21 BTrs)




Row 3a: Sl st in 1st 4 sts, ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr in same st, do 3 trs in next st, ch 2, (tr, ch 1) in each of next 5 BTrs, ch 1, do 3 trs in 2nd BTr, ch 2,  (tr, ch 1) in each of next 3 BTrs, ch 1, do 3 trs in next BTr, do 2 trs in next BTr, ch 1, turn. (21 trs)

Row 4a:  Sl st in 1st 4 sts, BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr) do 1 more BTr in same st, do 3 BTrs in next st, ch 2, do (BTr, ch 1, BTr) in top of next 3 trs, ch 2, do 3 BTrs in 2nd tr, ch 2, do (BTr, ch 1, BTr) in top of next 5 trs, ch 2, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next tr, ch 1, turn. (29 BTrs)



Row 5a:  Sl st in 1st 4 sts, ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr in same st, do 3 trs in next st, ch 2, do (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 1) in ch-1 sp betw each of next 5 BTr pairs, ch 1, do 3 trs in 2nd BTr, ch 2,  (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 1) in ch-1 sp betw each of next 3 BTrs, ch 1, do 3 trs in next BTr, do 2 trs in next BTr, fasten off leaving a tail for weaving in. (29 trs)

Left Top Lobe

String the beads onto the crochet thread in the following order (read the chart starting at the top with Row 14a. Read it left to right then go down to the next line.):





You will be crocheting in the opposite order from the stringing chart.

Row 6a:  Flip the butterfly bead side down, attach thread in the 3rd tr of the group of 3 trs in the middle of Row 5a.



BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr), do 2 more BTrs in same st, ch 2, do (BTr, ch 1, BTr, ch 2) in ch-1 sp betw next 5 trs, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next tr, ch 1, turn. (18 BTrs)



Row 7a: Sl st into 1st 4 BTrs, ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr in same st, do 3 trs in next st, ch 2, do (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 3) in ch-1 sp betw each of next 4 BTr pairs, (tr, ch 1, tr ch 2) in ch-1 sp betw last BTr pair, do 3 trs in next BTr, do 2 trs in next BTr, ch 1, turn (20 trs)

Row 8a:  Sl st into 1st 2 trs, BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr), do 1 more BTr in same st, do 3 BTrs in next tr, ch 2, do (BTr, ch 1, BTr, ch 4) in ch-1 sp betw next 4 tr pairs, do (BTr, ch 1, BTr, ch 2) in ch-1 sp betw in next tr pair, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next tr, ch 1, turn. (20 BTrs)



Row 9a: Sl st into 1st 4 BTrs, ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr again in same st, do 3 trs in next st, ch 2, do (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 4) in ch-1 sp betw each of next 3 BTr pairs, (tr, ch 1, tr ch 2) in ch-1 sp betw next BTr pair, do 3 trs in ch-1 sp betw last BTr pair, do 2 trs next ch-2 sp, do 3 trs in next BTr, do 2 trs in next BTr, ch 1, turn (23 trs)

Row 10a:  Sl st into 1st 9 trs, BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr), do 1 more BTr in same st, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next ch-2 sp, do 3 BTrs in ch-1 sp betw next tr pair, ch 2, do (BTr, ch 1, BTr, ch 4) in ch-1 sp betw next 2 tr pairs, do (BTr, ch 1, BTr, ch 2) in ch-1 sp betw last tr pair, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next tr, ch 1, turn. (21 BTrs)



Row 11a:  Sl st into 1st 4 BTrs, ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr again in same st, do 3 trs in next st, ch 2, do (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 4) in ch-1 sp betw next BTr pair, (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 2) in ch-1 sp betw next BTr pair, do 3 trs in ch-1 sp betw last BTr pair, do 2 trs next ch-2 sp, do 3 trs in next BTr, do 2 trs in next BTr, ch 1, turn (19 trs)

Row 12a: Sl st into 1st 9 trs, BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr), do 1 more BTr in same st, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next ch-2 sp, do 3 BTrs in ch-1 sp betw next tr pair, ch 2, do (BTr, ch 1, BTr, ch 2) in ch-1 sp betw next tr pair, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next tr, ch 1, turn. (17 BTrs)



Row 13a:  Sl st into 1st 4 BTrs, ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr again in same st, do 3 trs in next st, ch 2, do 3 trs in ch-1 sp betw next BTr pair, do 2 trs next ch-2 sp, do 3 trs in next BTr, do 2 trs in next BTr, ch 1, turn (15 trs)

Row 14a:  Sl st into 1st 9 trs, BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr), do 1 more BTr in same st, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next ch-2 sp, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next tr, ch 1, turn. ( BTrs)




Row 15a:  Sl st into 1st 4 BTrs, ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr again in same st, do 3 trs in next st, fasten off leaving a tail for weaving in. (5 trs)




Left Bottom Lobe

String the beads onto the crochet thread in the following order (read the chart starting at the top with Row 7b. Read it left to right then go down to the next line.):


Row 1b: Flip butterfly bead side down, attach string in the 4th tr on the right end of Row 5a, BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr), do a BTr in same st, do 3 BTrs in next tr, ch 2, do (BTr, ch 1, BTr, ch 2) in ch-1 sp betw next 3 trs, do 3 BTrs in next tr, ch 1, turn. (14 BTrs)





Row 2b:  Sl st into 1st 2 BTrs, ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr again in same st, do 3 trs in next st, ch 2, (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 3) in the ch-1 sp betw the next 2 BTr pairs, (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 2) in ch-1 sp betw last BTr pair, do 3 trs in next BTr, do 2 trs in next BTr, ch 1, turn. (16 trs)

Row 3b:  Sl st into 4th tr, BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr), do a BTr in same st, do 3 BTrs in next tr, ch 2, (BTr, ch 1, BTr, ch 3) in ch-1 sp betw next tr pair, (BTr, ch 1, BTr, ch 2) in ch-1 sp betw next tr pair, do 3 BTrs in ch-1 sp betw last tr pair, do  2 BTrs in ch-2 sp, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next tr, ch 1, turn. (19 BTrs)



Row 4b:  Sl st into 1st 9 BTrs, ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr again in same st, do 3 trs in next st, do 2 trs in ch-2 sp, do 3 trs in ch-1 sp betw the next BTr pair, ch 2, (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 2) in ch-1 sp between next BTr pair, do 3 trs in next BTr, do 2 trs in next BTr, ch 1, turn. (17 trs)

Row 5b:  Sl st into 4th tr, BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr), do a BTr in same st, do 3 BTrs in next tr, ch 2, do 3 BTrs in ch-1 sp betw next tr pair, 2 BTrs in ch-2 sp, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next tr, ch 1, turn. (15 BTrs)



Row 6b:  Sl st into 1st 9 BTrs, ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr again in same st, do 3 trs in next st, do 2 trs in ch-2 sp, do 3 trs in next BTr, do 2 trs in next BTr, ch 1, turn. (12 trs)

Row 7b:  Sl st into 4th tr, BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr), do a BTr in same st, do 3 BTrs in next tr, fasten off leaving a tail for weaving in. (5 BTrs)




Right Wing

String the beads onto the crochet thread in the following order (read the chart starting at the top with Row 4c. Read it left to right then go down to the next line.):

Right Joined Wing

Row 1c: Attach in the top of the side of the dc on Row 8 of the right side of the body.



Ch 5 (counts as 1st tr, ch 1), tr in same spot, ch 3, (tr, ch 1, tr) in top of dc on Row 10, ch 5, (tr, ch 1, tr) in top of dc on Row 12, ch 1, turn. (6 trs)



Row 2c: Sl st into ch-1 sp, BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr) do 4 more BTrs in same ch-1 sp, ch 2, do 5 BTrs in ch-5 sp, ch 2, do 3 BTrs in next ch-1 sp, ch 2, do 3 BTrs in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, do 5 BTrs in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, turn. (21 BTrs)



Row 3c: Sl st in 1st 4 sts, ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr in same st, do 3 trs in next st, ch 2, (tr, ch 1) in each of next 3 BTrs, ch 1, do 3 trs in 2nd BTr, ch 2,  (tr, ch 1) in each of next 5 BTrs, ch 1, do 3 trs in next BTr, do 2 trs in next BTr, ch 1, turn. (21 trs)

Row 4c:  Sl st in 1st 4 sts, BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr) do 1 more BTr in same st, do 3 BTrs in next st, ch 2, do (BTr, ch 1, BTr) in top of next 5 trs, ch 2, do 3 BTrs in 2nd tr, ch 2, do (BTr, ch 1, BTr) in top of next 3 trs, ch 2, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next tr, ch 1, turn. (29 BTrs)


Row 5c:  Sl st in 1st 4 sts, ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr in same st, do 3 trs in next st, ch 2, do (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 1) in ch-1 sp betw each of next 3 BTr pairs, ch 1, do 3 trs in 2nd BTr, ch 2,  (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 1) in ch-1 sp betw each of next 5 BTrs, ch 1, do 3 trs in next BTr, do 2 trs in next BTr, fasten off leaving a tail for weaving in. (29 trs)



Right Top Lobe

String the beads onto the crochet thread in the following order (read the chart starting at the top with Row 14c. Read it left to right then go down to the next line.):





You will be crocheting in the opposite order from the stringing chart.

Row 6c:  Flip the butterfly bead side down, attach thread in the 4th tr on the right side of the joined wing of Row 5a.





BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr), do 1 more BTr in same st, do 3 BTrs in next tr, ch 2, do (BTr, ch 1, BTr, ch 2) in ch-1 sp betw next 5 trs, do 3 BTrs in next tr, ch 1, turn. (18 BTrs)







Row 7c: Sl st into 1st 2 BTrs, ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr in same st, do 3 trs in next st, ch 2, do (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 3) in ch-1 sp betw each of next 4 BTr pairs, (tr, ch 1, tr ch 2) in ch-1 sp betw last BTr pair, do 3 trs in next BTr, do 2 trs in next BTr, ch 1, turn (20 trs)

Row 8c:  Sl st into 1st 4 trs, BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr), do 1 more BTr in same st, do 3 BTrs in next tr, ch 2, do (BTr, ch 1, BTr, ch 4) in ch-1 sp betw next 4 tr pairs, do (BTr, ch 1, BTr, ch 2) in ch-1 sp betw in next tr pair, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next tr, ch 1, turn. (20 BTrs)

Row 9c: Sl st into 1st 4 BTrs, ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr again in same st, do 3 trs in next st, do 2 trs in next ch-2 sp, do 3 trs in next ch-1 sp, ch 2, (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 4) in ch-1 sp betw each of next 3 BTr pairs, (tr, ch 1, tr ch 2) in ch-1 sp betw next BTr pair, do 3 trs in next BTr, do 2 trs in next BTr, ch 1, turn (23 trs)


Row 10c:  Sl st into 1st 4 trs, BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr), do 1 more BTr in same st, do 3 BTrs in next tr, ch 2, do (BTr, ch 1, BTr, ch 4) in ch-1 sp betw next 2 tr pairs, do (BTr, ch 1, BTr, ch 2) in ch-1 sp betw next tr pair, do 3 BTrs in ch-1 sp in last tr pair, do 2 BTrs in next ch-2 sp, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next tr, ch 1, turn. (21 BTrs)


Row 11c:  Sl st into 1st 9 BTrs, ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr again in same st, do 3 trs in next st, do 2 trs in next ch-2 sp, do 3 trs in ch-1 sp betw next BTr pair, ch 2 do (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 4) in ch-1 sp betw next BTr pair, (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 2) in ch-1 sp betw next BTr pair, do 3 trs in next BTr, do 2 trs in next BTr, ch 1, turn (19 trs)

Row 12c: Sl st into 1st 4 trs, BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr), do 1 more BTr in same st, do 3 BTrs in next tr, ch 2, do (BTr, ch 1, BTr, ch 2) in ch-1 sp betw next tr pair, d 3 BTrs in ch-1 sp betw next tr pair, do 2 BTrs in next ch-2 sp, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next tr, ch 1, turn. (17 BTrs)


Row 13c:  Sl st into 1st 9 BTrs, ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr again in same st, do 3 trs in next st, do 2 trs in next ch-2 sp, do 3 trs in ch-1 sp betw next BTr pair, ch 2, do 3 trs in next BTr, do 2 trs in next BTr, ch 1, turn (15 trs)


Row 14c:  Sl st into 1st 4 trs, BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr), do 1 more BTr in same st, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next ch-2 sp, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next tr, ch 1, turn. ( BTrs)


Row 15a:  Sl st into 1st 9 BTrs, ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr again in same st, do 3 trs in next st, fasten off leaving a tail for weaving in. (5 trs)







Bottom Lobe

String the beads onto the crochet thread in the following order (read the chart starting at the top with Row 7d. Read it left to right then go down to the next line.):


Row 1b: Flip butterfly bead side down, attach string in the 1st tr of the 3 trs on the right middle of Row 5c,



BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr), do 2 BTrs in same st, ch 2, do (BTr, ch 1, BTr, ch 2) in ch-1 sp betw next 3 trs, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next tr ch 1, turn. (14 BTrs)






Row 2d:  Sl st into 1st 4 BTrs, ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr again in same st, do 3 trs in next st, ch 2, (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 3) in the ch-1 sp betw the next 2 BTr pairs, (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 2) in ch-1 sp betw last BTr pair, do 3 trs in next BTr, do 2 trs in next BTr, ch 1, turn. (16 trs)

Row 3d:  Sl st into 4th tr, BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr), do a BTr in same st, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in ch-2 sp, do 3BTrs in ch-1 sp betw next tr pair, (BTr, ch 1, BTr, ch 3) in ch-1 sp betw next tr pair, (BTr, ch 1, BTr, ch 2) in ch-1 sp betw next tr pair, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next tr, ch 1, turn. (19 BTrs)


Row 4d:  Sl st into 1st 4 BTrs, ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr again in same st, do 3 trs in next st, ch 2, (tr, ch 1, tr, ch 2) in ch-1 sp between next BTr pair, ch 2, do 3 trs in ch-1 sp betw next BTr pair, do 2 trs in next ch-2 sp, do 3 trs in next BTr, do 2 trs in next BTr, ch 1, turn. (17 trs)

Row 5b:  Sl st into 9th tr, BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr), do a BTr in same st, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next ch-2 sp, do 3 BTrs in ch-1 sp betw next tr pair, ch 2, do 3 BTrs in next tr, do 2 BTrs in next tr, ch 1, turn. (15 BTrs)


Row 6b:  Sl st into 1st 4 BTrs, ch 4 (counts as 1st tr), tr again in same st, do 3 trs in next st, do 2 trs in ch-2 sp, do 3 trs in next BTr, do 2 trs in next BTr, ch 1, turn. (12 trs)

Row 7d:  Sl st into 9th tr, BTTCh, (counts as 1st BTr), do a BTr in same st, do 3 BTrs in next tr, fasten off leaving a tail for weaving in. (5 BTrs)







Customized Bandeau Top




Print out a copy of the above diagram
. You can print the diagram by hovering over it with your cursor, doing a right click and then click on Save Image As.  If you are using Google Chrome the file will be on the bottom left of your screen (or save it place you can find it, then open the folder it's in and double click on it).  Double click on the file and it will open up in a picture viewer, then print it.  As you are measuring, write your measurements on the corresponding places on the diagram. Measure around the high bust, mid bust, low bust and midriff. Then measure the length from the high bust to the mid bust, the mid bust to the low bust and the low bust to the midriff. (The Bandeau length needs to be close to be 9 1/2 inches or larger in order to be able to fit the butterfly applique.)

Before you start crocheting you need to measure your gauge.  My gauge for this stitch is about 4 sts per inch and about 3 rows per inch.  Knowing your gauge per inch will help you to know how many stitches to increase or decrease by to match your measurements.  If you don't know how to measure gauge here is a video by Red Heart.  If you are having trouble keeping an even guage check out this tutorial.

Be sure to measure each row after you finish it to know how many stitches you need to increase or decrease by.

Row 1: With the worsted weight cotton yarn and the G hook make a row of fhdcs the same length as the midriff, ch 2, turn.  (the bandeau is made in the flat and then stitched together)  You will ch 2 and turn at the end of each row.

To begin a new row hdc in the same st as the ch 2.

The number of stitches you add in the next few rows depends on your gauge and the difference in the measurement betw your midriff and your low bust.  If there is an inch difference in width then you will add a total of 4 stitches, if 2 inches then 8 stitches, etc.  It also helps to measure the width of your rows as you progress.

I generally like to add 2 stitches in a row. Here is how you would add 2 stitches in a row.

Count the number of stitches and divide by 4, this will be called the side. Mark each side with a stitch marker. The side will be at the same spot on each row. (Example:  You have a total of 120 stitches.  120 divided by 4 equals 30.  The side will be 30 stitches from the right side and 30 stitches from the left side.  So in this case the first side is stitch 30 and the second side is stitch 90.) 


Mark the sides with a stitch marker



Here's how do do the row.
Hdc in same st as ch 2, and in each hdc until you get to the side, do another hdc in the same st, hdc in each stitch until you get to the second side, do another hdc in the same st, hdc to end of row, ch 2, turn.

Be sure to measure each row as you go


If you just want to add 1 stitch find the middle of the bandeau, by dividing the number of stitches on the previous row by 2, then add an extra stitch in that st. (Ex. 120 sts in the previous row, divide by 2, 60, so do two hdcs in st 60.

Here's how to do the row.
Hdc in same st as ch 2, and in each hdc until you get to the middle, do another hdc in the same st, hdc to end of row, ch 2, turn.

Continue making rows until you have the length you need between the midriff and the low bust.

The next part will be the length between the low bust and the mid bust.  If you are busty you may need to add 3 to 4 stitches as you add rows.  Do this by adding a st at each side and 1 to 2 in the middle.  The middle will change slightly with each row, so count the stitches in the previous row and divide by 2 to find it.

Here's an example:
Hdc in same st as ch 2, and in each hdc until you get to the 1st side, hdc in same st, hdc until you get to the middle, do another hdc in the same st, hdc to the 2nd side, hdc in same st, hdc to end of row, ch 2, turn.

Now between the middle bust and the high bust the width will likely decrease. Instead of adding a stitch you will do a hdc2tog.

Here's an example:
Hdc in same st as ch 2, and in each hdc until you get to the 1st side, hdc2tog, hdc to the 2nd side, hdc2tog, hdc to end of row, ch 2, turn.



Once you have your bandeau in the right dimensions, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew on the applique in the middle front



and then whip stitch it together (this will be the middle back.)  Weave in any loose ends.

 



Happy Hooking!

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