Crochet Parfait: March 2014

A while back Teresa K asked me to do a filet crochet pattern. I love Papel Picado, colorful tissue paper cut into patterns and hung up as decoration for Mexican fiestas, so I decided that a papel picado inspired lace curtain would be just the design that would go well with filet crochet.

I decided to use this particular design for my inspiration.

Papel Picado

Here is a chart of the design. This is a full size chart and if you right click on the image you should be able to do a Save Image As to save it to your computer and print it out. If you have trouble doing this, email me at crochetparfaitpg@yahoo.com and I will send you a file copy of the chart, ask for adobe.pdf, picture.png or excel.xlsx. The excel chart is editable.

Abbreviations

YO--yarn over ch(s)--chain(s) fdc(s)--foundation double crochet

dc(s)--double crochet(s) st(s)--stitches

Tips for making this chart

Chain loosely, if you chain tightly your work will be uneven. If you have trouble chaining loosely use a crochet hook 2 sizes larger than the one you use to make the double crochets.
Whether you decide to do a foundation chain or foundation double crochet, use a stitch marker to mark every 20 stitches. This will make it easier to keep track of the number of stitches.
Print out the filet chart and mark through the stitches you have just completed with a pencil. This will help you keep track of where you are. If you have to go back and redo something, just erase the parts you need to redo.
Crochet the body of the chart first. Fasten it off and weave in ends, then attach your yarn in the places indicated on the top of the chart to make the loops. Crochet each loop separately. You may need to make your loops shorter or longer depending on the size of the curtain rod you use. When you fasten off leave a long tail, so you can sew the loop together.

Instructions for Following the Chart

The size of the curtain depends on the size hook and yarn you use and your gauge.

For the curtain in the picture I used a

No 2 (C) 2.75 mm hook
Pattons Grace Mercerized Cotton Light Weight (3) yarn, 5 skeins

Finished Size is 31 inches wide x 20 inches high

Gauge is 6 sts per inch 2 rows per inch

For the demonstration I'm using an

H hook No 8 5.00 mm
Worsted weight cotton yarn. (since most cotton yarn comes in small skeins, it would probably take about 5 to 6 skeins.

Finished size with this yarn and hook would be about 52 inches wide x 31 1/2 high

Gauge is 7 sts = 2 inches 3 rows = 2 inches

Start out on Row 1 (numbers on the sides of the chart). There are 2 stitches per square. The | symbol stands for 1 dc, the . stands for one ch.

Row 1: You can either ch 157 (154 chs with the last 3 chs counting as the first dc) or I recommend doing 154 fdcs (foundation double crochet). The fdcs are stretchier than the ch sts so you don't end up with one end of the curtain being tighter than the other. Here is how to do the fdc stitch. I you do better watching a video, here's a good one by Crochet Geek.

Ch 3

YO hook then get ready to insert hook in bottom back bump of chain

Insert hook in bottom bump of chain

YO Hook

Pull up a loop, 3 loops on hook

YO hook

Pull through 1 loop, 3 loops on hook

YO hook

Now continue with doing a DC in the regular way. Pull through 2 loops, 2 loops left on hook

YO pull through last 2 loops

1st fdc made, DO NOT use the first ch 3 as a dc

To make second fdc, YO hook

Insert in bottom loop

YO Hook

Pull through 1 loop, 3 loops on hook

YO hook

Pull through 2 loops on hook, 2 loops on hook

YO hook

Pull through 2 loops on hook, 2nd fdc made

If you decided to ch only, insert hook in 4th ch from hook and make 154 dcs.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in top 2nd dc and in each to the end of the row (154 dcs)

I'm going to write out the next row to give you an idea of how to read the chart.

Row 3: Ch 3 (counts a 1st dc, from now on ch 3 at the beginning of each row for the first dc). Reading the chart from the right hand side to the left (follow the red numbers at the bottom) do 3 dcs, ch 10 (loosely), do next dc in the 11th dc after your first 4 dcs, or in the 15th dc on the 2nd row, dc in next dc.

Ch 18, dc in 19th dc after the last 2 dcs or in the 35th dc on the 2nd row, dc 10 more times.

Ch 13 (you will notice that the first square has one | and one ., these count as the 2 sts in this square, one dc and one ch), dc in the 14th dc after the last dc made on row 3 or the 57th st on the second row, dc in the next st.

Ch 16, dc in the 17th dc after the last dc made on row 3 or in the 77th dc on row 2, dc in next dc.

Ch 16 dc in the 17th dc after the last dc made on row 3 or in the 95th dc on row 2, dc in next dc.

Ch 12, dc in the 13th dc after the last dc made on row 3 or in the 109th dc on row 2, dc in next 9 dcs.

Ch 12, dc in the 13th dc after the last dc made on row 3 or in the 131st dc on row 2, dc in next dc.

Ch 6, dc in the 7th dc after the last dc made on row 3 or in the 139th dc on row 2, dc in next dc.

Ch 10, dc in the 11th dc after the last dc made on row 3 or in the 151st dc on row 2, dc in next 3 dcs. (41 dcs and 113 chs).

For Row 4 you will be reading the chart from left to right, you will switch back to reading right to left on Row 5.

Continue to crochet to Row 48. When you finish this row fasten off and weave in the ends, then attach the yarn in the indicated stitches for the loops. Do each loop separately, fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Then sew the end of the loop down to the bottom of the beginning row for the loop.